Archive for December, 2006

So, my last day in Paris, and what to do with it??

Thursday, 28 December, 2006

More wandering the streets – my favourite pastime. After getting a single ticket to Cité (I should at this point record that I’ve really quite enjoyed using the Metro, the hotel was directly between two stations; Strasbourg St-Denis and Réaumur Sébastopol, and so getting around has been really easy), I had an enjoyable 45 minutes at Notre Dame.

I didn’t take single picture of the cathedral; instead I concentrated on the tourists! It was really interesting to watch (and photograph) people taking photos of each other! I feel slightly guilty for not visiting the Crypte Archéologique – but what the hell, I’m on holiday.

Determined to walk everywhere today I walked from Ile de la Cité across the bridge to the smaller of the two Seine islands; Ile St-Louis. This, according to the Lonely Planet guide, is the most romantic part of Paris – although today it was too cold for any of that, and since it was early (10.30 am) there weren’t many people around.

Today has been punctuated by ‘tea’ stops due to me being so damn cold! From the islands I walked back to the Marais area where I knew there would be lots of things to take photos of. But first a tea stop – although I chose the wrong place, not that the tea wasn’t okay, but that it was bloody expensive – €4.50.

Of course ten minutes later out in the cold I needed a wee desperately, so gave in to another museum – the Picasso Museum – worth the entrance fee to get warm and use the facilities. The first hurdle though was the cloakroom, as the woman refused to take my camera backpack, claiming it was too big and she had no room. Instead she suggested that I leave it in an unattended box with lots of others. Although I don’t ever put my camera in the cloakroom, I still wasn’t going to leave my bag unattended.

I have to admit that the art did little for me – and I would say that I like Picasso’s art in general. This museum contained a lot of his lesser known works, many of which I can honestly say I didn’t really like!

Lunch was in a fantastic Bagel Deli in the Jewish Quarter – Bagel Store. Although I had a burger! Back out on the street, more wandering!

Back in the area around the Pompidou Centre there was lots to photograph; I had intended to visit the Musée Poopee (Doll Museum), but it was getting late and I’d only have justified it if I’d been able to take photos (which I wasn’t) – a strange choice of visit for me anyway because I absolutely hate dolls!

I don’t know why but the queue for the Pompidou Centre was massive, snaking right round the square; not that you have to pay to go in the building, but that they are insisting on looking inside everyone’s bags. It’s just as crazy as in England, I have 3 large compartments in my rucksack but they are only interested in looking in the top one (perhaps they don’t realise that that there are 2 more) – I could put anything in the bottom of the bag – it seems to me it’s just an exercise to try and ‘reassure’ the public that things are being done to protect our security! What a joke, I have no idea what we are supposed to be protected from – the bogyman?

When it got too dark to take photos I returned back to the hotel for a shower, and to finish packing (I’d done most of it last night). Then it was out for the first time without my rucksack to find a restaurant for dinner. Could I find anything I wanted!?!

I managed to find a whole shopping and public square area near the hotel that I hadn’t been to before, but the only places that I found to eat were cafés which did little in the way of meals. In the end I went for one that looked likely, and ordered kind of blindly from the menu as I didn’t really know what I wanted.

Not sure I wanted what I got – Maison Tartare – eg. pink mush!! Actually it tasted really nice, but looked bloody horrid. Although I wasn’t able to finish the massive plate of it that I was given.

On the way back I took a wrong turn out of the restaurant and ended up in completely the wrong direction!

So to bed, a good holiday over. I’m really glad I came, and being away over Christmas was great. I’d like to come back to Paris when the weather is a little warmer – the problem with that is the huge amount of tourists! Maybe one day I’ll even be able to persuade Colin to visit with me (ha!).

Two worrying occurences

Thursday, 28 December, 2006

On this trip I’ve done something very unlike me, twice. I’ve managed to lose two items; the first was annoying as in the space of 5 minutes I lost the ticket I’d just purchased to the exhibitions in the Pompidou Centre – that cost be another €10.

The second item was a little more serious, and I still don’t know how it happened – I lost my bank card. Obviously I cancelled it as soon as I released, and the last transaction that the bank had was mine so no-one had tried to use the card (not that they were likely to get far without my pin number).

I guess what’s worrying me is how unlike me that is – I hope it’s not a new trend.

Posting my Paris adventure

Wednesday, 27 December, 2006

Bonjour – for those of you (I can’t believe there are many, with the exception of my brother who says that it’s better than talking to me!) who want to read about my adventures in Paris over Christmas – I’ve started posting them.

They will appear on the day they were written, so you’ll have to scroll down the page to find them (they start on December 21st), or you could hit the ‘Paris’ label on the right to get all the postings so far – more to follow.

DON’T FORGET TO READ THEM IN THE RIGHT ORDER – START AT THE 21ST!!

The photos, and there are lots, will start to appear on Flickr sometime soon, I’ll put a note on the blog to let you know.

Happy reading.

Two amazing places

Wednesday, 27 December, 2006
And there was me thinking that I’d done everything that I wanted to do in Paris (not likely I know, but I’d done the things on my list for this visit).

But today I remembered reading about the Maison Europeenne de la Photographie, so went to find it in the Marais area. I’m glad I did, there was some amazing photography, unfortunately the main exhibition wasn’t really of interest to me as it was a retrospective of a French reportage magazine – although there were some excellent historic shots.

One French photographer has really caught my eye with his mad self portraits – Philippe Ramette, and I brought a book of his photos.

Afterwards I had no real plans so wandered almost aimlessly around the Marais and Bastille areas. The street art in the Bastille area is fantastic, not so much stencil art but loads of paste ups and space invaders. I’m going to have to make a set in my Flickr stream for them all.


I’ll be posting my Flickr photos soon, I’m also probably going to start posting these blog entries too – when I’ve sorted out photos and links for them all.
It’s a wonder that I have any fingers left – oh how I suffer for my art! – in order to keep taking photos (sometimes at a moments notice) I can’t really wear gloves (although I do have some excellent thin ones but couldn’t find them), instead I wisely bought some fingerless gloves. The problem is that my fingers have nearly frozen off – and my skin is really dry.

Lunch had to wait as there was no food available in the Photography gallery cafe (cake and drinks only), so I found a restaurant at 3pm. In the Jewish part of town there were loads of restaurants selling falafel – yummy.

Not much more to report today – probably did the most walking around the streets today, and plan to do some more tomorrow – my last day in Paris.

Legs are aching now – been there done that!

Tuesday, 26 December, 2006

In a way I’m Paris’d out!! I’ve visited the Eiffel Tower, Notre Dame, the Arc de Triomphe, the Lourve, the Centre Pompidou, Sacre Coeur, Shakespeare & Co Bookshop, Montmartre, Cimetiere du Pere Lachaise, the catacombes, the sewers, Champs Elysees and generally wandered around.

Today I was unsure where to go, so started at the Musee d’Art Moderne to look at the art; no photos allowed in there but there was some great art and photography (in all the museums and galleries I’ve been in I’ve been making notes so that I can look things up afterwards).

Then after a nice lunch in a cafe (cold ham and french fries) I crossed the river to visit the sewers of Paris! It was a bit disappointing as they are modern (unlike the the London sewer system which dates back to the 19th C – but not open to the public), but still amusing.

Actually the funniest thing was watching four American tourists! They came in at the same time as me but were completely unsure if they wanted to enter; having paid the entrance fee they descended down behind me. As soon as we got below ground the two women started complaining about the smell and covering their faces with scarves or pinching their noses! At one point they refused to continue; so I told them that the smell would not be so bad if they breathed through their mouths – which they ignored! I didn’t see them again as I think they made a dash for the exit!

After a bit more wandering I decided to go back up to Montmatre – the streets up there are really interesting and there are some great shops (not that I’m particularly interested in shops – although I got some great giraffe socks!).

By accident I managed to find Le Mur des Je t’aime (The wall of ‘I love you’) by Frédéric Baron. It’s in the little park behind the amazing entrance to Abbesses Metro station.

Getting tired I wandered around a little and then got the Metro back to the hotel – back in my room by about 6pm. Tonight has been a chance to fiddle with photos (only 828 so far!! and that’s after I’ve deleted the rubbish and out of focus ones!), watch crap news channels, and have a bath.

I’ve spoken to Gee, Dad, Richard and Colin over the time I’ve been here – Dad and Richard seem to call every few hours! Colin is sending emails which is much better as it doesn’t cost me anything.

Blast from the past……

Tuesday, 26 December, 2006

My mobile just rang, and for some reason, even though I didn’t recognise the number I answered it.

A deep voice said ‘Hello Sar, this is Mark’ – well I should have guessed by the use of the name ‘Sar’ (only two people have ever been allowed to call me that – Nigel and my ex-boyfriend, Craig). It wasn’t Nigel and obviously it wasn’t Craig (he died 15 years ago – that would have been scary!); but it was Craig’s younger brother, Mark. When he first said who it was I didn’t realise it was him – he had to tell me!

Lovely to speak to him – he sounds all grown up – which is crazy as he’s only a year younger than me!

What a surprise – not a call I was expecting. I haven’t heard from his parents for some time and was wondering if everything is okay (he assures me that it is).

Christmas Day in Paris

Monday, 25 December, 2006

Wonderful. I really think that going away for Christmas is the way to go – it’s fantastic! Especially staying in a hotel where you don’t have to worry about anything.

I have to admit to having a lie-in this morning (I got up from breakfast and then went back to bed!), so didn’t go out until about 11. Having been shown the view towards the Eiffel Tower from the other bank last night I decided to wander over that way today.

It seems that most of Paris were out and about today; walking around and on the Metro. And the queues at the Eiffel Tower were massive; which is strange as the top half was completely shrouded in clouds – there can’t have been any view at all.


Having wander around under the tower for an hour, and having a Christmas lunch of french fries and hot chocolate (yum!), I walked over the bridge to take photos of the tower.

I’d thought that I’d spend the majority of the day there, but despite spending some time photographing a lost glove (and the tower of course!) I decided to go up to Montmatre.

What a wonderful area, of course famous for it’s artists it has now become something of a tourist trap – and boy were there lots of tourists (even on Christmas day – and many of the shops were also open).

I got some great photos of street art, and then happened across the studio of an amazing artist, he was also sitting in the window painting. I really want a piece of his art but it’s over £600 – have a look at his website at Andre Martins de Barros. The one I want is called ‘Checkmate’ and is under the ‘limited edition’ tab.

Unfortunately the wonderful Sacre Coeur was mostly hidden in fog; but the area around it was heaving with people. All the artists were braving the cold in the square and I have to admit it was tempting to get a drawing of myself – but made do with buying a painting instead.

Most of the travelling I did today was by Metro, I really took advantage of the time to continue reading my book – Perfume by Patrick Suskind. I’ve read it before but don’t remember much so wanted to read it again before seeing the film after Christmas.


Since I had remembered to take by monopod out with me I went back to the view from the Place de Varsovie towards the Eiffel Tower and got some great shots. I really like trying to get no flash night-time shots.

I’ve probably racked up a massive mobile bill by phoning and texting various people today, and getting calls from Colin, Gee, Dad and Richard. It’s nice to talk to them (especially Colin), although I can honestly say that I’m enjoying the time on my own.

It’s nice not to have to worry about what anyone else might like to do, or where they might like to visit – I can totally do what I want on a whim.

Better than us

Monday, 25 December, 2006

I’m sure there are lots of things that the French do better than us, but the three that I’ve really noticed have been the metro system (clean, tidy and cheap), litter (there are bins everywhere – even in the Metro, unlike the underground which is strewn with rubbish due to lack of bins) and finally – the toilets, there are automatic toilets everywhere (and although I hate them they do seemed to be used), and all major attractions have them – and they are clean, looked after and above all they are free (even the auto ones).

Just to balance things out I should point out the things I’ve noticed that the French don’t seem to do so well – Dog shit, it’s everywhere; and looking after their homeless.
Obviously I don’t know anything about this but there seem to be many many more homeless people (and beggars) in Paris than in London (it could be that they are just more visible).

Dead animals

Sunday, 24 December, 2006

It seems that wearing fur is not as big a taboo in France as it is in the UK. I’m surprised that things haven’t even changed here, and that so many women seem to think that wearing a dead animal makes them look good!?!?

I can sort of cope if the article in question is an antique, classical design; but most of the ones I’ve seen have been modern. In fact as I type this I’m standing next to a woman wearing a full length coat which I think is wolf – yuk!

Killing animals for the beautification of humans (fur coats or cosmetic testing is just not necessary anymore – we have synthetics to warm us and cosmetics don’t need animal testing) is just wrong – imho!

Oh what a show!

Sunday, 24 December, 2006

I think I must be getting tired as today I didn’t venture very far from the hotel, that and the fact that I knew that I had to get ready to go out tonight.

The Centre Pompidou is only round the corner so that seemed the obvious choice for a morning visit. Looking like something that has just landed from space amongst all the traditional French apartment buildings it really is odd!

It’s 100 years since the birth of Georges Remi (Herge), and there was a massive Tintin exhibition, with a fantastic brick of a book explaining it all – which I’ve bought and will now have to learn to read French!! They are mad about Herge, which is odd as he’s a Belgian – I share my birthday with him I’ve just discovered!

There is also currently a temporary exhibition of photography; a collection of pieces from all over the world. Some really inspiring stuff (I had to get the exhibition catalogue book), really fires me up about taking photos.

The section of the museum that I would really of liked to visit, the fifth floor museum was closed, this is the one with a lot of the famous art in it – but the fourth floor was also very good with ‘Le Mouvement des Images’ exhibition. The photo below is from a film of a man walking around the outline of a square – fasinating!

Some really interesting work, some by quite well known artists. There was also a temporary exhibition of work by Yves Klein – but more on that in another blog.

This afternoon I had a long bath, I’ve really got into ‘Perfume’ by Patrick Suskind (one of my favourite books which I thought I’d read again before the film comes out after Christmas), so lazed around reading and then got ready for Le Lido.I got a taxi to the Lido on the Champs Elysees, worrying slightly about how I was going to get back after the show. The queue was monstrous and I was bloody freezing in my posh dress and high heels!

I hadn’t expected to be sat on a table with other people but I was with a very nice French couple who spoke very little English. Dinner was amazing, lobster followed by beef (yum!) and then a raspberry mousse thing with walnut ice cream; all washed down with half a bottle of champagne.

The show was out of this world, dancing, singing, trapeze artists, mime (bloody fantastic!), ice skating, fountains, gymnastics, people descending from the ceiling and ascending from the floor – and a horse! The only thing that wasn’t real was an elephant – but I had to look twice to check.

I can’t begin to describe the show (and photos aren’t allowed), but basically it consisted of short ‘pieces’ with dancers (bare breasted but with lots of sparkle and feathers) and sometimes singing, many from different parts of the world or history; ancient Egypt and India were two. The mime piece was the best for me, i don’t think I can describe it though!

At the end the biggest shock was being presented with the bill! There must have been a mix up as they had no record of Dad paying for my meal, and although they checked three times I had to pay. The snag was that my credit card was in the cloakroom (good job I’d brought it with me, I nearly didn’t), the up side was that the waiter took my cloakroom ticket at the end and got my coat without me queuing – so that I could pay of course.

Photography is not allowed in the show but a woman was going round taking photos of people (Dad, Lottie, Robert, Richard and Arlene had theirs taken when they visited), so I got one done for Dad.

About half way through dinner I solved my transport home problem, I adopted the nice French couple and they offered me a lift home – via some of the monuments lit up for Christmas. So sweet of them, of course some would say crazy of me to get into a strangers car but believe me it was preferable to walking back from the Metro station passed all the tramps sleeping in telephone boxes, in shop doorways and in the park outside the hotel.

So, it’s time for bed – it’s Christmas Day, twenty past one actually – definately time for some sleep.